Yield: 6 servings

Souvlaki
2 pounds lamb shoulder or 2 pound sirloin tip in 1 1/2-inch chunks
2 cups dry red wine
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 teaspoons lemon rind, long strips
1/4 cup olive oil
Sweet peppers and cherry tomatoes as needed

Tzaziki
2 cups plain yogurt
1/2 English cucumber, peeled and grated
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt

Begin preparing the tzaziki a few hours before serving. The flavors need time to blend.

Marinate the meat overnight to absorb the wine and garlic.

Souvlaki: Place the meat in a large bowl. Pour in the wine and sprinkle minced garlic and oregano. Imbed the lemon strips among the cubes of meat and drizzle with olive oil. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate 12 hours or overnight. Shake or stir the mixture several times during the marinating period.

About 30 minutes before serving, drain off and discard the marinade. Thread the chunks of meat onto long skewers, brushing with a little olive oil. (We usually barbecue the peppers and tomatoes on separate skewers but it's really up to the chef.)

Over medium coals, barbecue the souvlaki until it's done the way you like it.

Serve on a bed of rice and pass the tzaziki to spoon on top.

Tzaziki: Line a colander or sieve with cheesecloth (or gauze) and set it over a bowl. Pour in the yogurt and allow it to drip for an hour or so.

After the yogurt has drained, combine it, in a small bowl, with the cucumber and the garlic. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until just before serving.

While the meat is barbecuing, drizzle the olive oil over the surface, and without stirring, sprinkle on the salt. It needs no mixing - your guests will do that when they dollop it onto their souvlaki.

Makes about 3 cups.