Sauce
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
2 1/4 cups hot water
5 tablespoons tomato paste
8 ounces cremini mushrooms
1 cup coarsely diced red onion
2 medium cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup chopped parsley, divided
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup Chianti or other dry red wine
1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Pasta
5 quarts water
2 teaspoons salt
3/4 pound dried fettuccini
1/2 cup pasta
1 tablespoon unsalted butter (optional)
1/2 cup coarsely shredded Parmesan cheese (optional)

Put the dried porcini mushrooms in a bowl and add 2 1/4 cups hot water. Place a small plate on top to keep mushrooms from floating and set aside 30 minutes. Drain, saving 2 cups liquid.

Rinse mushrooms briefly and press in paper towels to remove excess water. Strain the mushroom liquid through a paper towel-lined sieve. Put tomato paste in a bowl and whisk in a little mushroom liquid until smooth. Then add remaining liquid, mixing well. Set aside.

Trim stems from cremini mushrooms and wipe caps with a damp paper towel. Slice thinly and set aside. Put reconstituted porcini mushrooms, red onion and garlic on a cutting surface and chop together coarsely. Add half of parsley.

Heat olive oil in a 3 1/2 quart pan set on medium heat. Add fresh mushrooms and chopped vegetable mixture; saut? stirring occasionally, 15 minutes. (Reduce heat slightly as vegetables begin to dry out.)

Add wine and simmer 5 minutes. Pour mushroom-tomato liquid into the pan and season with some salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Cover and reduce heat to a simmer; cook 30 minutes. Stir sauce occasionally. Uncover and continue at a simmer 20 minutes. Stir in remaining parsley.

Place a large pasta bowl in a warm oven. Bring 5 quarts water and 2 teaspoons salt to a boil in a 10-quart pot. Add pasta and bring back to a full, rolling boil. Stir well. Cook according to package directions, using the shortest cooking time. Taste and continue cooking until pasta is al dente. Remove 1/2 cup pasta cooking water, then drain.

Transfer pasta to warm bowl and toss with butter if using. Pour sauce over pasta and toss gently. Add cooking water as needed. Toss with cheese and serve.

Yield: 4 servings

Nutritional information per serving: Calories 511; Protein 19.59 grams; Fat 14.22 grams; Carbohydrates 77.39 grams; Sodium 817 milligrams; Saturated fat 3.68 grams; Monounsaturated fat 7.15 grams; Polyunsaturated fat 1.85 grams; Cholesterol 88.64 milligrams